Let’s deep dive into the difference between Ammonium Thioglycolate (TGA) and Cysteamine Hydrochloride when used in lamination products

Ammonium Thioglycolate (TGA)

TGA is a salt derivative of Thioglycolic Acid, traditionally used in chemical waving (perms). In brow lamination, it’s used as the main reducing agent in step 1 of the process – the “perm” lotion.

TGA breaks the disulfide bonds in the keratin structure of the hair, allowing the hair shaft to be restructured and reshaped.After application and processing, a neutralising solution reforms the bonds in the new desired shape.

So what are the pros of using a TGA based product?

- It is very effective on coarse, thick or unruly brows

- It works quickly, meaning the processing times are often quicker.

What are the cons?

- It is more aggressive and can be drying or even damaging to brow hairs or skin if overprocessed.

- It is not ideal for fine, sparse, previously laminated (within 8 weeks) or damaged brows.

- It can cause sensitivity or irritation for some clients, particularly on thin or reactive skin.

- It has a strong, sulphur-like odour.

Cysteamine Hydrochloride

Cysteamine is a modern, gentler alternative to traditional perm agents (TGA). It’s a compound derived from cysteine, a naturally occurring amino acid in keratin-rich tissues (like hair).

Like TGA, cysteamine breaks disulfide bonds to allow the reshaping of brow hairs. However, it does so at a higher pH and with less harsh chemistry, maintaining the integrity and moisture of the hair. It often doesn’t require a strong neutraliser, depending on the brand/formulation.

So what are the pros of using a Cysteamine based product?

It is much gentler on the hair and skin, making it ideal for: Sensitive clients, lamination beginners, clients with fine or previously processed brows.

Cysteamine based products are often enriched with nourishing ingredients (keratin, amino acids, panthenol). They tend to be odourless or low-odour formulations and allows for more frequent lamination without overprocessing.

What are the cons?

-They may require longer processing times (often 8–12 minutes vs. 5–8 with TGA), meaning the treatment time is overall longer than TGA treatment times.

-The results may be softer or more natural-looking rather than dramatically straight and slick.

- They are generally more expensive and less readily available than traditional TGA-based systems.

- They might not be strong enough for very coarse or stubborn hairs.

Summary for Professionals

Use ATG-based brow lamination products for:

- Clients with very thick or downward-growing brows

- One-off special occasion treatments where long-lasting hold is key

- Situations where speed and efficiency are needed

Use Cysteamine-based lamination systems for:

- Clients with sensitive skin or allergies

- Regular clients who get laminations often

- Natural, fluffy brow finishes where hair health is a priority

Pro Tip:

As and educator, and seasoned pro, I offer both methods in my treatment menu. Allowing me to offer more personalised treatment to my clients and boosting my income.

The difference between TGA and Cysteamine based products.